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	Summerhaven to Patagonia
	November 4th Amity: The Santa Catalina Mountains are proving to be far more spectacular than I ever could have imagined. Tusconites are lucky folks to be able to walk directly into them from the city proper. The trail system up here is remarkable. At 8,000 feet the landscape felt distinctly alpine, no doubt it provides a most refreshing respite from the heat of summer below. Camp tonight is a rocky perch off of the Box Camp Canyon Trail. Tucson glitters below, framed between jagged ridge lines. Brian: After fueling up with some Sour Cream Apple Pie, a deli sandwich, and a few brownies for good measure, I was ready to hit the trail again. We agreed to test our luck by linking up the Sunset Trail and Box Camp Canyon Trail to access the East Fork of Sabino Canyon. Info from the locals was pretty vague, but all agreed the trails in the Santa Catalinas were tough going post burn. So we set off with low expectations -- always good when you are walking into potentially frustrating terrain. One reason we chose Box Camp Canyon Trail was that it was the only route down that tended toward ridgeline hiking. Obviously good for the views, but also much easier to navigate if the trail happened to be questionable. As we entered the Pusch Ridge Wilderness at the Box Camp Canyon Trailhead, the hiking was very pleasant...seemingly alpine and luckily uncharred. As we descended (4,000 ft in 7 miles) we've transitioned to desert vegetative zones. As it turned out, the trail has actually been pretty distinct. It has certainly had its vague sections, but nothing any worse than what we encountered in the Mazatzal Wilderness of other burned out areas. Amity discovered a lovely camp on a granite ledge for the night... pleasant evening temps and a balmy breeze are a nice change from the standard cooler evenings. November 5th Amity: When I looked at the maps yesterday for today's journey, the route seemed very straight forward and making good forward progress seemed a given. It never ceases to amuse me that a day can end up being something so completely different. We began by continuing our descent to the East Fork of the Sabino. The trail became even more indistinct and we ended up alongside Palisade Creek. Our socks and shoes were so full of prickly sticking plant parts from the brushy descent that we stopped to get them out and ended up spending a nice little while cleaning up next to the creek. That seemed to set a rather lazy tone for the day. Anyway, after moseying along with a little unplanned detour mid-morning, we had covered relatively little forward distance by lunchtime, which simply reinforced the day's mood. By mid-afternoon we had made it to the Molina Basin Campground, a swanky looking place with spotless pit toilets and garbage cans, but no piped water. The temperatures were the warmest we've had this trip and I was feeling rather parched and wondering about our water situation given our slower than anticipated progress for the day. As we were heading toward the Catalina Highway, studying an AZT sign, a couple stopped to ask us about the AZT. It was great being able to share a little about the trail with such enthusiastic folks. As we turned to go, they asked if we might like a satsuma left over from their picnic lunch. I did not hesitate and followed probably all too eagerly to their car. Out came the satsuma and a bottle of gatorade, both of which had been chilling in an ice chest. What an absolutely unanticipated treat - the first fresh citrus fruit this trip. Cold and juicy, it was the perfect refreshment. The icy gatorade was a real bonus to the day's hydration. I feel so grateful for such unguarded generosity. They also mentioned a bakery in Patagonia, definite incentive to keep moving forward. The trail from the campground was excellent, good walking all the way. I was in front and at a junction marked only with a cairn I chose the path heading south, along a canyon named "La Milagrosa". The trail was lovely, climbing onto a ridge, the light of late afternoon falling in reds and golds upon the rocks. Just the name "La Milagrosa" was enough to draw me on. Thankfully Brian had actually paid attention to the maps when we had looked at them last, and soon suggested that we stop to review them. Sure enough, we needed to be heading east. The path we were on would lead us directly to the paved streets of Tuscon. We turned around, yet another detour in the day, and rejoined the AZT. With fading evening light we found a place to camp. The day has been a good one and I'm glad that I'm not hiking alone as I would have almost certainly awoken from my reverie along "La Milagrosa" on the streets of Tuscon at nightfall, wondering where I had gone wrong. November 6th Brian: We packed up and starting hiking this morning just after 6 am and quickly came upon the Belotta Ranch Rd which we followed a few miles to Reddington Rd. Hiking eastward for about 2 miles, we eventually came to our trail junction. After a few miles of lovely rolling terrain we dropped into a wash and then began what would become a 3,500 ft climb into the Rincon Mountains. Amity set a great tempo, and we walked through several distinct vegetative zones during our ~7 miles ascent. The trail was in great shape despite the recent fire, and nicely contoured at the higher elevations. Eventually we left the AZT to drop down to Manning Camp for what we anticipated was a good, reliable water source. Upon arrival, the `source' was a brackish pond full of decomposing leaves with no in or outflow. Scouting around, Amity discovered a stock tank nearly full of rainwater...a much better alternative. As the wind picked up and the temperatures dropped, we set up our filters and retired to the coverage of an old concrete floored stock stable to snack, hydrate, and relax. Shortly, an NPS Ranger arrived on the scene. Our casual `Hello' was greeted with an immediate request for a permit, and the accusationary assumption that we were planning to camp illegally at Manning Camp. The conversation went something like this: Me:"Hello!" Ranger Griswold:"Do you have a permit? You are in Saguaro National Park and a permit is required for any and all overnight camping." Me:"No, we do not have a permit. We are not planning on camping overnight." Ranger Griswold:"I notice that you have a sleeping bag out. Seems like you two are pretty set-up like you are planning to camp." Me:"The sleeping bag is out because it is cold. We are hiking the Arizona Trail and are planning to be outside of your park boundary by nightfall. We stopped here to filter some water. As far I know, no permits are required in National Parks for dayhikes." Ranger Griswold: Pause. "Where did you start today? Can you show me maps of your intended route?" Me:"You bet. We started this morning near Belotta Ranch and intend to be camping on BLM land near Ash Rd this evening." Ranger Griswold:"You'll need a permit if you intend to camp anywhere in the Park Boundary. I need to be certain you understand that. If need be I can issue you a permit right now to stay at Happy Valley Saddle Campground, but in the future you need to book your permit in advance of your arrival." Me:"Uhhh, we have no interest in camping anywhere in Saguaro National Park tonight. We are planning to camp near Ash Creek Rd. We appreciate the offer of a permit, but we have no use for one. Thanks but no thanks." Amity:"Do you have any idea of the weather forecast?" Ranger Griswold:"No. Uhhh, if you two need anything I'll be in and out from the camp for a little while..." Once the NPS Gestapo left us alone, we finished filtering our water, packed up and left. On his behalf, Ranger Griswold did radio headquarters for the weather, did not issue us a citation for `wilderness loitering', and never drew his weapon. Much appreciated on all accounts. Anyway, the remainder of the afternoon was very pleasant hiking... down to Devil's Bathtub and then contouring around the hillside to rejoin the AZT at Heartbreak Ridge. We followed the ridge about 3.5 miles. The views in every direction were quite stunning, and we both figured we could see Mexico on the horizon from this vantage. Dropping down through the granite boulder fields of Miller Creek the vegetation began to change immediately and by the end of our 3,000 ft descent, we were back among the plants we started with in the morning. The evening light was spectacular and we made camp in the dark at around 6 pm, just above a wash on nice, soft ground...a welcome change from the nights previous. The skies, like this morning, are occasionally spitting rain. Amity: Today was extremely satisfying. There is nothing like going up and over a mountain range in a day to make one feel a sense of accomplishment. From the Santa Catalinas yesterday, our view south was of the Rincons, and now that we are over them we gained entirely new views with the late afternoon. Crossing the park boundary on our way out this evening felt like victory. After the exchange with the ranger, I fully expected a park employee to be waiting for us, just to make sure we really weren't going to spend the night on USDI National Park land. November 7th Brian: Another early start got us to Mescal around 11 am after a 17 mile dirt road walk. Our anticipation for a deli was unfortunately met with a closed sign. Regardless we made due for lunch with the assortment of microwaveable meals available. Pushing off shortly and heading south towards Patagonia. Lots of advice from locals about watching out for immigrants as we hike south. Rainy and overcast day. November 7th A Northbound Encounter Brian: We left the convenience store in Mescal and headed south over the Interstate and hung a right westward on West Navajo Trail. We followed this paved road for a few miles winding through the neighborhoods of Mescal. Once we reached the end of the road we scooted under a barbwire fence and headed cross-country towards Cienaga Creek. Essentially the next 30+ miles until reaching HWY 83 is entirely up to us as the AZT is non-existant in these parts. A series of roads and washes will get us to the HWY where we should hook up with the AZT through the Santa Rita Mountains, finally reaching Patagonia, AZ for our last re-supply. We eventually made our way into Cienaga Creek and headed south, dipping into and out of its braided washes along an old two track. Knowing that the possibility of encountering immigrants was high, Amity and I had discussed our strategy earlier in the day. Essentially the ball was in Amity's hands as her Spanish is muy bien and mine is muy mal. Anyway, my job was to stand around, smile and nod in agreement with whatever Amity said. A few miles down the creek I noticed a group of immigrants heading along the same road as us northward. I told Amity and then immediately raised my arms up and said, "No Problemo!" and stopped walking. Everyone in the group stopped when the leader signaled to do so. Amity went into action and I was busy smiling and nodding. The leader soon felt comfortable with the situation and motioned for the group to continue onward. We held our position and then offered some of the travelers an energy bar or two. The group ended up being quite large (12-15 folks) and most were dressed in black and carried very little besides a water jug. Ages appeared to range from around 18 to 60. We wished them all luck, to which many replied a quiet and genuine "Gracias." As the last few stragglers passed by, I jokingly told then to "andale'!" and they smiled and laughed as they hustled to catch up. Initially I was quite nervous about the encounter, but Amity's ability to communicate put my mind at ease. These folks are on their own adventure and the last thing they want to do is cause any static to interfere with their chances of getting stateside. The rest of the day was spent discussing immigration policy as we walked by a number of `camps'; makeshift resting spots strung up with black garbage bags, old blankets, and strewn with clothing and empty water jugs. I can't imagine what the immigrants must of thought of us, walking for fun through the desert towards Mexico. Certainly different realities. As we walked into the evening, we noticed a Great Horned Owl perched in a juniper snag and we watched it take flight silently for the evenings hunt as we approached. Camp tonight is a ways above the creek, so as to hopefully avoid any night time encounters as well as giving the north bounders an easier time. As we made camp a large and vibrant double rainbow appeared to the north. I made the mistake of pitching my tarp a bit too close to an anthill...as such I have been invaded! Amity was kind enough to allow me sanctuary beneath her tarp and I am much more comfortable as a result. All the road walking made the day pretty productive in terms of mileage... about 26 on the odometer for the day. November 8th After a night of scattered rain showers, we awoke and descended to Cienaga Creek. We followed the wash upcreek to what is referenced as `The Narrows'. We mistakenly began heading eastward but caught ourselves quickly and backtracked to a junction and followed a powerline road out of the wash west and then south where we rejoined Cienaga Creek proper. It seems we have caught back up with Fall as the Cottonwoods are just beginning to turn. The road continued along, crossing Cienaga Creek a few times before becoming impassable as it climbed the eroding eastern bank. Once out of the lush creek bottom, the road turned into your standard rocky AZT two track...going in our general direction of travel, but never as direct as we'd like. Eventually the road re-entered Cienaga Creek, but became indistinct as it followed the wash. We continued cross-country until finding the Empire-Cienaga Rd near a ranch. This would be our route for the next ~20 miles of walking until reaching HWY 83...as such there ain't much to say about it! Brief highlights include seeing a cardinal and a roadrunner. Other than that we kept a steady pace to get it over with asap. Reaching HWY 83 in the late afternoon, we hopped across a barbwire fence and walked cross country into a gated ranchette-style community. Climbing over the fancy coded entry gate, we made our way to the Greaterville HWY which we would follow another few paved miles before turning onto a dirt road. Obviously lots of roads for the day, and another higher mileage day as a result. Brian November 10th Amity: In Patagonia at last! This town has seemed long in coming, the last resupply town this trip. Only 2 1/2 days to go, doesn't seem like very much. The walking since Mescal has been such a mixed bag. The trail from Mescal to the Mexican border very much resembles the letter "C" with a walk west from Mescal to the Santa Rita mountains, a southward jaunt through the foothills of the mountains into Patagonia and now a very much east southeastern path to the border. Yesterday's walk in the Santa Ritas made up for what seemed initially like a very silly course. The trail from Kentucky Camp (a delightful historic camp complete with piped water and a little furnished cabin one can rent) followed the route of a water pipeline that was part of a hydraulic mining effort from 1904. Interpretive signs along the way made the extremely well graded trail even more interesting. With late afternoon we were feeling very good about our progress towards Patagonia, and upon reaching FR 72 felt like we were into a good stretch of free sailing. Well, moments like that seem to invite erroneous thinking. We arrived at a junction, pulled out the maps and turned left, which seemed very logical at that moment. Well, after climbing briefly and dropping very steeply the road came to an end. Instead of turning around we decided to follow the creek bed at which we had just arrived. It was beautiful with colored polished rock, boulders to work around, tight walls opening into wider washes and narrowing again. With some fall color the trees lent themselves nicely to the scene. So on we went and it was gorgeous. The afternoon grew late and we decided it would be best to climb up to a ridge to gain some vantage and find a place to camp. Once we were settled in camp our error became apparent and we were able to figure out with fairly high certainty where we were. With this morning we headed back to the Casa Blanca canyon bottom. In this stretch there were plenty of really good cattle paths so we made good time working our way towards civilization. Before long we picked up a road, crossed onto private property, met the landowner upon whose property we had intruded (thankfully just the kind of benevolent property owner one would wish to meet), and made it to the highway where we walked for several miles to Patagonia. Ah, at last, Patagonia makes itself apparent. Brian: Once we arrived in Kentucky Camp, the hiking became quite pleasant. Well contoured trail was the name of the game until just past the Mt Wrightson Wilderness where we joined up with a steep and rough 4wd road. The Mt Wrightson Wilderness was pleasant, especially for the entire .5 mile we were in it on the AZT. Luckily we managed to return to it for the better part of the evening due to our unplanned detour down Casa Blanca Canyon. Despite the detour we enjoyed our evening and had a great camp and night sky. Morning brought cool temps and a dewy wetness to the day. Eventually we made it to Patagonia where we have sampled two restaurants already...one for a late breakfast, the other for an early lunch. Pushing off again shortly for the border. Miller Peak and the general area of the AZT's southern terminus, has been visible the last 2 days, so our anticipation for wrapping this hike up has grown. Hopefully the remaining 2.5 days will be as great as the previous 34(?) days.
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