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	South Rim Grand Canyon to Flagstaff
	October 13th Runnin' on Empty, Despite Full Tanks. Brian: Well Budweiser is truly the King of Beers. After 23+ miles of Forest Service Road walking, the # of roadside Budweiser cans outnumbered all other brands combined. Folks around these parts must subscribe to the Abbey littering model...it's not the cans that are an eyesore, but rather the road the cans are next to that is truly hideous. Anyway, judging from the opening you can guess that today was not the most exciting day of hiking. Surprisingly we slept in a bit at the south rim despite having the absolute worst spot in Mather Campground...close to some dumpsters, and surrounded by either busy roads or busy footpaths. It seems the hiker reserved sites are always poorly located. Something else to right my Congressman about. After packing up we headed south through the 'burbs of Grand Canyon Village and out to a utility road which we followed for a ways before hitting the Highway near the National Park's South entrance. We continued alongside the Hwy for a short distance until reaching the Tusayan Ranger Station. We checked in with the rangers there about the weather, the AZT, and our alternative route along FR 302/301. Surprisingly they told us about a number of water tanks along the dirt road we planned to walk, and were quite positive about the availability of drinking water at these sources. They also filled us in on the 16 mile mountain bike trail from the ranger station to Grandview Tower where we could then join up with the AZT. Of course these 16 miles were completely dry, followed the flight path of many of the airborne scenic tours, and would only gain us mileage in an easterly direction. Our alternative was more direct, avoided more paved road walking, was more obscure, and appeared to have less water concerns. So off we went into, and just beyond, the town of Tusayan, AZ before hitting FR 302. Besides a few minor junctions, it was pretty straight forward, forested walking. Temps were ideal for maintaining a hydrated state which proved to be important since every "water tank" we came to was a stagnant lagoon. Apparently the definition of "tank" is a bit different in AZ. We have yet to encounter anything that comes close to resembling a "tank." In our minds a "tank" is something which is fabricated from metal or concrete and is used to store and regulate water for cows and assorted wildlife. In Arizona-language a "tank" is apparently code for a bulldozed pile of dirt used to catch whatever little rain falls or snow melts. Uses seem to range from water for cattle to 4WD mud boggin' fun. Of the 4 we passed by, they all appeared to be at least 50% fecal matter, 50% water. Discouraging to say the least. But, like our current Commander in Chief, we were resolute and continued onward despite the bad intelligence from a seemingly reliable source. We were hoping to make it to the Moqui Stage Stop this evening but have fallen a bit short. We did get some water from a kind gentleman who happens to be camping down the road from us. Our situation was not desperate, but it will certainly make our morning a bit more comfortable. Total hiking time: ~9 hrs. Really the hardest part or our day comes after 6 pm when it gets dark. Entertaining ourselves for at least 2-3 hrs each evening (at least when food is not involved) is proving difficult. Besides this journal, and general camp chores we have little to do. Thus far tonight we have recited the NATO Phonetic Alphabet. Thanks for reading. Amity: I saw a roadkill tarantula today, poor furry little critter. October 14th Road Warriors Brian: Awoke this morning to very cold, crisp air. Felt good in the lungs, but not anywhere else. Eventually got out of bed, packed up, and back on FR 301 heading towards Moqui Stage Stop and beyond. Within a few minutes we came upon BuClaire Tank...a nice raised concrete tank that appeared crystal clear when compared to the tanks we passed by yesterday. I filled up with a gallon for the day, while Amity chose to fill her water bladders later at Lockwood Tank, about 10 miles distant. The day warmed up quickly and while the road walk to Lockwood Tank was pretty bland, I did see a Tarantula along the way. Eventually some distant views of the San Francisco Peaks became visible on the horizon. A light dusting of snow coated the upper slopes of Mt Humphrey's, the highest point in AZ. Also on the way to Lockwood Tank was the Moqui Stage Stop. This was one of the stopping points for the tourist stagecoaches heading to the Grand Canyon from Flagstaff between 1892 and 1899. The original ride cost $20. Not much remains today other than some stones from what appeared to be a foundation of some sort. After meeting Amity at Lockwood Tank, (she is usually ahead of me) we headed out on another two track dirt road. Occasionally we would pass a 4 x 4 wooden post with an AZT emblem, or a brown carsonite post with an AZT sticker and directional arrow. Just past Lockwood Tank we saw our first cows of the trip, and would continue to see them throughout the day. Not terribly exciting, but noteworthy nonetheless. Eventually we descended to, and past Tubbs Ranch which had some nice raised metal tanks full of water. Unfortunately we could not access the goods, and neither of us had the moxie to face down the dogs, or deal with the possibility of a confrontation. So, we pressed on into the early evening trying to limit the miles necessary to get to water early tomorrow. Camp tonight is a bit lumpy, but otherwise perfectly fine for our weary feet. Total hiking time:~9.5 hrs. Amity: Another sort of timeless day. It simply passed and miles were covered one after another. A day of all roadwalking which makes for high mileage in minimum time but rather tired feet. Spent the morning on my own en route to Lockwood Tank, a pleasant walk. Met a fellow named Chris passing in a truck who kindly stopped to ask if I needed anything. I said I was fine and asked how much farther to the tank. That quickly brought us to the subject of water, whereupon he jumped out of his vehicle and offered me all of his remaining water, plus a little bottle of Grape Gatorade that was tasty and pleasing in a very blue/purple kind of way. Lockwood Tank was a cess pool and my insides have not felt the same since. A bit dry today, warmer, more exposed, sun and more sun. October 15th Road Warroirs II Brian: I slept surprisingly well despite lumpy ground, and we packed up and got off to an early start...anxious to locate and utilize Cedar Ranch Tank. After a few minutes of walking along the dirt road, we came to a very nice metal Arizona Trail sign. A brief synopsis of the AZT, an overview map, and a warning to look out for "venomous creatures" where all including on the sign. I am always surprised to see such detailed signs in what seems to be the most impractical places. Anyhow, we hung a left and continued along a rough road for bit longer until spotting Cedar Tank to our west and up a slight rise. Upon arriving at the tank, we were discouraged to see the raised metal tank algae ridden, and the spring feeding the tank was very weak. Undeterred we walked down and around to the low side of the bulldozed reservoir and began filtering enough water for today and tomorrow - about 2 gallons apiece. We are using a 7.5 oz ULA-Equipment H20 Amigo Gravity Water Filter as well as a 5 oz Siphoning System that Amity has rigged up with a 4 L Platypus Water Bag. Although both systems are slower than pump filters, it gives us a chance to relax and lets gravity do the work for us. While filtering we saw another tarantula as well. Eventually we filtered enough water and hit the road again, circuitously making our way around Missouri Bill Hill and then heading generally southward. Elk season opened yesterday, so we saw a number of hunters out and about looking for their elusive Bull. A number of trucks passed us, the passengers decked our in either blaze orange or camo. All were friendly and at least slowed and offered a wave. More AZT road walking eventually led to a brief stretch of vague and poorly marked trail between FR 416 and FR 514. The hiking was easy enough, although the area burned recently so at times the going was a bit tricky. I saw a number of deer and a young cow elk along the way. Soon we were back on dirt roads and looking for our junction with FR 9006R. This route is yet another alternative (probably the last) we came up with while planning our hike. By linking up a bunch of roads, we would eventually get to the Bear Jaw/Abineau Canyon Trailhead at the base of the San Francisco Peaks and the Kachina Wilderness. We were anxious to get off the roads and remind ourselves what trail hiking was like. The official AZT follows more roads and wraps around the western flank of the San Francisco Peaks -- primarily on roads, but also some cross-country hiking. Anyway, our route to the aforementioned trailhead ending up being a zig-zagging affair. Recent burns left plenty of downed timber and made for tricky footing at times. Our road to the trailhead was pretty direct, but by the time we arrived, much of our route was cross country. Tomorrow we head into Flagstaff, about 26 miles distant, up and over the San Francisco Peaks through Doyle Pass. Our route should be taking us through some alpine zones briefly as we reach 10,000 ft+, our highest elevation along the AZT. We are planning to take a rest day in Flagstaff, and I am certainly looking forward to being off my feet for the day. Camp tonight is on a forested knoll and despite the wind, the temps are comfortable. Total hiking time:~8 hrs. Amity: Another day almost entirely on roads, providing plenty of time for thinking about trails and hiking. While Arizona may have an official state trail and a trail association to back it up, any state is just as walkable as this one. All one needs to do is find the remote back roads, 4WD preferably, and tie them together with public lands, and voila! one has a hike the length or width of a state. Some states are certainly more conducive to this than others, depending on ratios of private to public lands, but every state has potential. A trail provides a good excuse for a walk, but what I am learning is that a trail is anywhere that one chooses to walk. October 16th Brian: The night was surprisingly warm in the San Francisco Peaks. We certainly anticipated cooler temps since we were camped at ~8,600 ft. A good night sky and lots of shooting stars was our nights entertainment. We hit the trail pretty early in hopes of arriving in Flagstaff (~26 miles distant) before the library and other hiker amenities shut down for the evening. Entering the Kachina Wilderness, we climbed steadily upward through Bear Jaw Canyon until reaching the "waterline road" at about 9,700 ft. We followed this well graded pipeline road down a few miles through golden aspen trees to the Inner Basin of the San Francisco Peaks. Heading southward and steadily upward for 1,400 ft, we eventually came to the trail junction for Humphrey's Peak and Doyle Saddle. We headed left and slightly downhill, contouring along the flanks of Fremont Peak until reaching 10,600 ft Doyle Saddle. At this point much of the trail was covered with compacted snow which made the going a bit precarious at times. Upon reaching Doyle Saddle and the Weatherford Trail, the views in all directions were quite nice, despite the slightly overcast skies. The Weatherford Trail was originally constructed for old-time vehicular use, so the grades were frustratingly mellow...long contours with seemingly little elevation change between switchbacks. For those familiar with the PCT, think of the descent northbound off San Jacinto Peak. Despite my desires to cut the trail at times, I was a disciplined Boyscout. We rejoined the AZT and made it down to the Trailhead at Schultz Tank and then followed the AZT another 6 or so miles into Buffalo Park. Amity was walking her 12 minute mile pace, so I was immediately dropped and left to hobble down the trail, dodging mountain bikers throughout the afternoon. From Buffalo Park, we headed into the actual town of Flagstaff, checked out the library, and checked into the Historic Hotel Monte Vista...conveniently located about a stones throw from Route 66, and the railroad that seems to have a very active schedule no matter the hour. All attempts to find Flagstaff a charming, historic, or quaint and rugged western town has been lost to a very noisy Saturday night populous and the damned trains! Anyway, tomorrow is a full rest day, and then we will boogie on out of Flagstaff and get back to the woods. Total hiking time:~9.5 hrs. Amity: We made it to Flagstaff in good time. The north side of the San Francisco Peaks is spectacular and stunning - rugged, craggy, slightly snowy, impressively alpine. The south side is unremarkable, rolling, tree-covered and visually uninspiring. The climb up made me feel great, ascending into the mountains and clear crisp air felt like an accomplishment. The view north from Flagstaff, however, makes me wonder if I did anything today. October 17th Flagstaff Rest Day Amity: A rest day in Flagstaff. We began with an early breakfast at Kathy's Cafe. Given the late night bar hopping that seems to be popular on a Saturday night, the town was quite asleep this morning and the cafe was initially empty. While eating we made our town to-do list. We then set out for the grocery to round up some food, the bookstore for a newspaper to get caught up on all the gruesome details of the election that we've been happily unaware of, and the auto store for fuel. The afternoon has been spent getting caught up on correspondence, cleaning gear, eating and resting in anticipation of tomorrow. Brian: A much deserved and welcome day off in Flagstaff today. Much of the morning was spent doing a few chores, but otherwise I have been bed bound, resting my legs and icing my feet. The day itself has been blustery and cool, with a little bit of precipitation. The Hotel Monte Vista has been a pleasurable stay...our room is on the same floor as the "Michael J. Fox", "Linda Ronstadt", and "Zane Grey" suites. Of course our room has no such distinction other than being next to the Janitors closet, and across the hall from the cleaning ladies linen room. We head out tomorrow for Mormon Lake, ~32 miles distant.
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