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October 28th
Brian:
After leaving Roosevelt, clean and well-satiated, we
headed north along the HWY a short distance to Forest Rd 449
where we made camp for the evening. The night was quite pleasant
and we enjoyed staying up late (for us anyway) to watch the lunar
eclipse.
Ranger Quentin mentioned to us the day before that the AZT along
Cottonwood Wash was nearly completely destroyed from a flash
flood, so we decided on this alternate: a short dirt road walk
to Tule Trailhead, and then a 4.5 mile climb to rejoin the AZT
along Two Bar Ridge.
We started hiking this morning just after 6 am. We were treated
to a lovely sunrise and the largest Tarantula to date...it only
had seven legs, but it was probably the size of my hand. A very
large spider. Anyway, our intentions for the day were to get
in as many miles as we could so our resupply in Superior would
be relaxed. Sometimes things do not go according to plan.
As soon as we reached the ridgeline the rain began to fall steadily
and the wind picked up. Wet and chilled we continued on along
an exposed ridgeline, across a drainage, and up a very steep
slope to a broad meadow where Amity noticed a rock wall that
we have learned are remnants of an Hohokam Indian Village.
Eventually we made our way down to Reavis Ranch, one of the
two original ranches in the Superstition Mountains before it
was designated wilderness in 1940. Crossing an open meadow we
came upon a trail sign. Wet, fatigued, and generally disoriented
by the gray skies and low clouds, we turned right, heading northward.
After an hour of steady climbing we came upon the Plow Saddle
Trail Junction, where we caught our mistake.
Slightly discouraged by our discovery, we did consider an alternate
to rejoin the AZT, but decided it was more prudent to backtrack
to the correct trail junction and continue on known trail. Thoroughly
soaked and chilled we turned around and headed southward along
the Reavis Trail.
Upon arriving
at the trail junction, we spent a few minutes discussing our
options. As it was 3 pm, we only had a few hours of daylight
left. Reavis Ranch has nice places to camp, as does Rogers
Trough which was ~6 miles distant. Not wanting to repeat the
evening we had below the Mogollon Rim a week ago, we opted
to make camp in the apple orchard of the old Reavis Ranch site
while we had daylight and clear thinking brains to work with.
With teeth
chattering we set up camp and have thankfully been entombed
in our warm sleeping bags for a few hours. It seems the fall
monsoons have arrived a little late this year.
Tomorrow we need to do ~21 miles before the PO closes at 4:45
pm, so it looks to be an early start. Hopefully the skies will
give us a slight break in the morning to pack up and slip back
into our wet hiking clothes. I am sure the Superstition Wilderness
is normally a spectacular place, but we were unable to see much
of anything the entire day.
Amity:
A couple of days ago, while bushwhacking up Boulder Creek
en route to the Four Peaks Wilderness, my umbrella, which had
been tethered to my pack, was lost. I'm fairly certain of the
location, but unfortunately did not become aware it was missing
until late that afternoon when we heard a rumble of thunder and
my hand reached back to feel the umbrella, an automatic motion
I've developed in response to grey clouds, damp winds and the
sudden absence of bird chatter.
The umbrella is my primary source of rain protection so you
can probably imagine my sense of dread, especially given
the pluvial weather of late. Luckily we made it to Roosevelt
without any daytime rain, so no problem.
In Roosevelt, the best I could find was an Emergency Poncho, the kind one
might find at an inflated price when it begins to sprinkle at an outdoor
event. Basically a clear garbage bag fancified with a hood and armholes.
Well, today it rained, rained in that way that I can only describe as Cascadian.
The poncho worked surprisingly well initially, but before long every inch
of clothing was saturated and the poncho was providing only some very basic
but much needed heat retention.
Oh, yes, another wet cold day in Arizona. Brian said it best today, "If
I ever become a snowbird, the @#%@ I'd ever move to Arizona".
Would love to see the scenery, from views gleaned yesterday, this area looks
like it's probably fairly incredible.
October 29th
Brian:
The alarm went off at 5:30
am this morning, and we awoke to clear, cold skies and an ample
amount of frost coating the surrounding vegetation. The cool
night also managed to freeze much of our clothing into stiff,
unfriendly shapes. Dreading having to put those icy threads back
on, it was not difficult to convince ourselves to stay in bed
awhile longer.
Eventually we mustered the moxie to face the icy morning before
the sun found our camp, and we managed to push off just before
7 am. The cool temps made for a necessary brisk pace and we made
good time to a sunny saddle. Warmed a bit, we quickly changed
into our cold, wet clothes and then dropped south over the saddle,
heading towards the Trailhead to join up with FR 650. The canyon
was quite lush and many of the rock pools were filled with water
from the recent rains. It would have been pleasant to stop and
dry some of our gear alongside these idyllic pools, but we were
unfortunately running a tight schedule to make it to the Superior
Post Office before they closed. It was nice to have clear skies
to give us some sense of the Superstition Wilderness.
Onward we
pushed, climbing along FR 650 to Montana Mountain where the
AZT switchbacks down its southern face into Reavis Trail Canyon.
This canyon was quite lush as well, with pillowy mounds of
tufted grass, cottonwoods, and sycamores. The going was pretty
straight forward, with consistent cairns to guide us through
the creek bottom with minimal bushwhacking. Around noon we
emerged from the canyon, ate a quick lunch and then rejoined
and headed down FR 650. We left the AZT as we needed to head
considerably more eastward to get into Superior and in doing
so, avoided a number of shoulderless HWY miles.
After intersecting and following FR 8, we walked on an old set
of railroad tracks into Superior. Superior used to be a big copper
mining town, and the tracks we followed ran to the old smelter.
Just on the outskirts of town, we climbed over a tall chainlink
fence (to get off private property) and meandered down mainstreet
to the Post Office with an hour to spare.
Mentally it was a tough morning, but once we got out bed, we
made fantastic time and stayed focused despite our general weariness.
October 29th
Superior
Amity:
The discovery of first gold
and silver, and later and more importantly copper in the late
nineteenth-century put Superior on the map. The copper boom lasted
until 1982, when the mine closed. The mine reopened in 1989 only
to close again permanently in 1996. Superior is a living ghost
town of sorts but instead of feeling empty and cold, Superior
has a friendly warmth and the people are kind and good natured.
On the way up Main Street toward the post office, past little
boxy shack-like homes, modest shrines to various virgins tucked
into old brick walls, and beautiful shrubby flowering plants
growing like weeds over everything, we stopped in the Visitor
Information office which is also the community employment assistance
center. We asked about internet access in town, learned the library was not open
today and were immediately invited to use an available computer with a sign "For
job searches only". While we were there, a middle-aged fellow came in and
set a date for some resume assistance.
On Main Street, I would estimate that 75% of the available store fronts are vacant
and boarded. For Sale signs have been hanging for so long that the telephone
numbers one would dial if interested are faded and worn beyond legibility.
We are staying in the Motel El Portal, just up the street from Los Hermanos Restaurant,
where they daily turn out 300 to 400 dozen tortillas for distribution in the
area. While we ate the Machaca Chimichanga Deluxe Burro we flipped through a
copy of Prensa Hispana. For the first time this trip, Mexico really does feel
close.
Brian:
Walking up Main St in Superior, AZ this afternoon was
a good reminder that 3rd World conditions exist in our supposedly
first world nation. Certainly not on all fronts (no naked kids
bathing in the gutters), but in terms of housing, apparent employment
opportunity, and general appearance, it would seem this place
qualifies. In spite of its appearance, the town has a warm and
welcoming feel, and the people are incredibly friendly, relaxed,
and good natured.
We are staying
the night at the only Motel in town, and the owner, Alice is
an absolute pleasure to talk with as she knows a bit of local
history and was eager to share her experiences of living and
working in Superior. While the copper mine was at its peak
in the 80's, she worked in the tunnels below the surface processing
ore. About a year ago, she bought the motel. She also mentioned
that most of the employment opportunities are in Florence (SW)
at the prisons, or folks head to Phoenix to work for $8-$9
an hour. Alice also mentioned a major meth problem in the region
as well. Tough times in Superior for sure.
The town seems half dead already, but if it managed to survive
two eras of a boom/bust mining economy, I would think it won't
be blowing away anytime soon.
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