August 5th
I decided against a full rest day in Naples as the mileage breakdown worked best towards Clark Fork if we could get 8-10 miles out of the way today. As such I left the good company of Naples at about 2:30 pm and began the climb up toward Beaver Dam Pass.
Before leaving Naples, I enjoyed a wonderful dinner with Jeneen and her friend Bill last night...turkey, zucchini bowls, a tasty pasta salad, and homemade vanilla ice cream and raspberry cobbler. Not only was the food great, but the conversation was as well. A great evening in warm company.
This early afternoon I went with Jeneen and picked a few gallons of raspberries at her friends ranch...an 800 acre spread that is part tree farm and part cattle ranch that Bing Crosby told Jeneen's friends about many years ago.
I also had a chance to visit with Tony (local carpenter) a bit and he was helpful in giving me a heads up about the terrain ahead as he has hunted in the area for 30+ yrs. He also shared some pretty gruesome sawmill stories...the worst being when a co-worker chopped all 4 fingers off and management left the fingers on the time clock as a reminder to be safe...
The hike up to Beaver Dam Pass was warm in the afternoon sun. The trail itself was fairly distinct switchbacks climbing up to a saddle above the Shiloh Railroad crossing. From that point, more logging rd walking. There is supposedly a section of ICT single track between rds, but there is SO much logging debris, I was quickly discouraged from spending too much time trying to find it. Where it supposedly crosses the rd I decided to walk, there was never any clear evidence of trail, so I felt justified in my decision.
Before the final 3 mile push up to Beaverdam Pass we stopped to fill up on water. While doing so, some classy ladies stopped to let their dog get a drink in the creek. I was immediately smitten with the larger of the two. This tanned and half naked beauty not only had a larger beer in hand than her companion, but also a noticeably pronounced dip of snuff in her lower lip. Disappointingly, her left hand did not have a cigarette... that would have been the trifecta of sin embodied in a single person! A rare find! Tongue tied, all I could muster was a `Howdy' and I was unable to get any digits before they sped off in a cloud of dust. My search for love continues...
The remaining miles to Beaverdam Pass and slightly beyond where I found a decent camp, were pleasant enough, but rds nonetheless. The remaining miles to Clark Fork should be trail, so I have my fingers crossed that the maps are true and the trails are in decent shape. If so, the terrain should yield some big views as many of the miles are along (or near) the ridgeline. Funny to think that I have yet to see a sunrise or sunset! There is also the Calder Mtn Wolf Pack in the area and today I saw a few black bear prints roadside.
Anyway, I am anxious to justify all the rd walks for some good trail tomorrow.
WD seems a bit down this evening...normal post trail town visit depression I think. Hopefully he will be back to his perky self tomorrow.
BrianAugust 6th
I left camp just before 6 am. A few minutes of rd walking and I dropped right and onto some well-trod single track. A bit chewed up from equestrian use, but clear, distinct trail beneath my feet. After passing through an open jumble of downed timber the trail climbed briefly to a rd before again exiting right to a 2 track which soon dwindled to single track. Hurrah! Great trail as I climbed toward Kelly Pass. Ironically, the trail was so nice, I got a little suspicious of my good fortune, and actually convinced myself to backtrack just to be certain. Despite my efforts to confuse myself, I was on the trail and eventually allowed myself to trust the trail signs...the first directional hints of the hike thus far. Not ICT blazes, but simply signs at junctions telling what was what, and what went where.
The descent from Kelly Pass was quite steep in places as well as very entrenched from horsemen. The footing was fine, but gravity's enthusiasm to propel me downward took a bit of effort to counter.
WD however was enjoying the free ride downward and was a bit ahead of me when I decided to stop to put on my sunglasses. I whistled to bring him back, and he did so promptly, but what WD did not realize was that a wolf was slinking up trail behind him. As WD approached me, nub wagging, tongue lolling, I saw the wolf turn the corner below us. Immediately I gave a quick shout and the wolf bolted uphill into the brush. Meanwhile, WD was cringing a bit...likely trying to figure out why he got yelled at for being good and coming back!
Continuing on towards Boulder Creek I kept WD on-leash and continued to do so as we climbed the next few miles to he Timber Mtn trail jct. The trail was in good shape and moose, bear, and yes...wolf tracks were clear and obvious. Fortunately all the tracks were heading down canyon as we climbed up, but it appears as if we got caught by one morning commuter. Admittedly the rest of the morning I kept looking over my shoulder...
Lunch found us on the flanks of Calder Mtn with some nice views to the ridgeline south that we will be following this afternoon as well as the views of Lake Pend Orielle. Other than climbing over from Hunt to Fault Lake, I think this may be 2nd time I've ben able to see both horizons.
On our way again, the trail continued to impress as it climbed and contoured from saddle to peak...Purdy Peak, Mt Willard, and finally Pend Orielle which we are camped below for the evening in a tight bosque of fir. Since the breeze died, the mosquitoes are out in force.
The hike along the ridge this was great albeit very sunny and hot. I anticipated a possible dry camp tonight or either dropping down to Darling Lake, but a strong spring on the contour to Mt Willard saved us from added mileage or an uncomfortable evening. Originally I thought to try to make it to the Lunch Peak Lookout for camp, but WD was pretty beat from the dry trail and warm temps.
This section of trail today has certainly been the best of the trip. While I appreciate trees, big views are tough to beat. Should be more of the same tomorrow.
BrianAugust 7th
Awoke early as I slept poorly... a surprisingly warm evening atop the ridgeline and the skeeters were persistent throughout the night when the breeze quit.
The day thus far has proven to be the most relaxing of the trip. While we still managed our miles by mid afternoon, we took a 2 hr lunch and an earlier hr long break just after Lunch Peak and the Lunch Peak Fire Lookout. Grabbing a book in Naples has helped me stop for longer than 30 mins...
The trail itself has been amazingly well contoured all day. A few short climbs and descents, but seemingly flat. Big views of Lake Pend Orielle all day as well. Very pleasant walking among the flowering bear grass that has lined the trail, coating my left arm and shoulder with pollen. Certainly a noticeable lack of campsites along the ridge, but it should not prove difficult to find a spot large enough for one scrawny human and a WD.
As for wildlife, Hummingbirds, grouse (with chicks), and a few noisy Jays have been it for the day. Deer and Elk tracks along the trail, but no sightings.
Right after Round Top Mtn there was about a 1/4 mile of ATV damaged trail. Not surprising to see the carsonite post with the `no motorized' sticker broken in half and discarded in the brush.
The weather has been perfect as well...slightly overcast with a few sprinkles in the AM and sunny but breezy this afternoon --- which was good as the trail after the climb to Trestle Peak is waterless for ~8 miles. WD and I were both very happy to gulp down water straight from a hillside piped spring along the ridgeline between Cougar Mtn and Beeline Peak and just after the junction to Porcupine Lake.
Not only is water frequent along the ICT, the quality is simply amazing. I have probably drank as much untreated water as treated thus far. Of course, the next few weeks will determine just how good the water is...!
We are currently at the aforementioned spring and will hang here for a few hrs before heading down trail with hopes of finding a decent camp.
I always find it amazing how far sound travels. Here I am, ~4000 ft higher than the boats on the lake, the vehicles on the road, and the train on the tracks, yet I can distinctly hear their individual auditory signals... maybe not surprised, but rather disappointed. At least I do not hear leaf blowers, weed eaters, or lawn mowers...yet.
Clark Fork tomorrow.
Thanks for reading.
Brian
August 8th
I awoke to a nice sunrise from a small saddle along the ridgeline with ~10 miles to Clark Fork...half of which was a long, ~30 switchback descent. A few deer kept WD alert last night, so he was a bit grumpy this morning when we set off.
The morning came quick, and the temps warmed up rapidly. Fortunately much of the morning I was in the shade so the hiking was pleasant.
Eventually I popped out on a piece of private property. Fortunately it was a quick jaunt down a gravel driveway before getting out onto the public rd. I typically always respect private property, but no signs were posted along the trail, and no other alternates or rights of way to access the FS land exist. If you build, I think honoring established access rights need to be granted... in my mind that is an unspoken rule of the West.
After a very scary bridge crossing in which I managed to stop traffic in both directions, (future note: ford the river...it is safer!) I rambled into Clark Fork. Some friends of mine who are out hiking the CDT at the moment, put me in contact with a local couple that were willing to offer a place to stay in Clark Fork.
As I walked into town, Joyce turned off the rd and introduced herself... guessing right that I was Brian and the dawg was WD. Perfect! I cruised over to the PO and then we drove up the rd to Joyce and Konrads place, a 3 acre spread with grass, gardens, and a comfy cabin in the woods.
After introductions, etc I was treated to a lunch of home smoked Kokonee, goat cheese, and fresh cantaloupe.
Konrad also informed me that the chunk of private property that I dropped into and crossed is actually the `cabin' of Lord of Rings actor and star Viaggo Mortensen. From this point forward I hereby declare a moratorium on all of Viaggo's work until access to the ICT is granted!
WD has been enjoying the cool wood floors and Joyce and I went to gather some wood chips for her yard this afternoon. On the drive back I treated her and myself to a Huckleberry Milkshake at the local market. Mmmmm....
Konrad and Joyce also showed me the work of our mutual friend Phil who has worked with the Idaho Conservation League in trying to establish the Scotchman Peaks Wilderness Area. The 88,000 acres that the proposed area covers is already managed as such, but lacks official designation. Check out www.scotchmanpeaks.org for more info.
I'll likely take a rest day here tomorrow before heading out for the ~90 miles to Mullan, Id...the last stop before heading into the large tracts of wilderness of Central Idaho.
Brian
