August 9th
Instead of a full rest day, I decided to push off for Mullan this afternoon and left the gracious hospitality of Joyce and Konrad around 2 pm...but not until after Joyce had stuffed me full of cake, berries, carrots, and other goodies from her garden.
The rd walk leaving Clark Fork was actually quite scenic and low on traffic which made it somewhat tolerable. WD enjoyed it because a local who happens to work at the animal shelter stopped his truck and gave us an entire bag of dog treats...sometimes you have to say yes, despite the increase in pack weight! Besides, the ingredient list is pretty basic, so I figured we could share if need be.
Much of the Clark Fork valley is agricultural land so scenic barns, rolls of hay, and grazing animals were the norm for the 5 miles of pavement pounding.
Instead of following the ICT to Dry Creek, I turned up Twin Creek. Dry Creek was another ~2 miles of rd walk and my feet were protesting slightly. Besides, according to my maps, there is water higher up Twin Creek than in Dry Creek which will be helpful considering the next section of the ICT follows a high ridgeline and is therefore quite dry. Surprisingly, as I climbed my way to Deryle Forks, Twin Creek rd becomes ATV/Hiker Trail #77 about half way up as the trees thicken and the old road narrows. Very pleasant walking this evening and no sign of ATV's.
Camp tonight is a few miles short of Deryle Forks (where I will rejoin the ICT) and on the west branch of Twin Creek. A bit cool this evening which I am actually looking forward to as the previous nights on the trail were too warm despite the higher elevation.
I was very impressed with the last section of trail through the Cabinet Mtns. The terrain ahead certainly appears much less rugged on the maps as it basically follows the stateline of ID/MT before dropping into Mullan, but I am sure it will be scenic.
BrianAugust 10th
I got a bit of a late start today as I was busy chugging as much water as possible given the potential ridgeline dryness ahead. Bloated, I headed up the remainder of Twin Creek Trail 77 and soon came upon Deryle Fork and Rd 322.
The morning was perfect for hiking... cool, a slight breeze, and overcast.
If I kept my pace in check (which WD does by default) water consumption would not be an issue.
Just after Deryle Fork, I passed a fellow and his yappie Collie out picking Huckleberries. The rdway is lined with ripe berries and it did not take long for my pace to slow, my hands to stain, and my belly to grow. Thank you Mamma Earth! Tasty.
The rest of the morning continued along, the skies staying overcast and the day remaining cool. I eventually arrived at Jacks Gulch Jct where we are stopped for lunch. After feeding WD, I dropped my pack and wandered down to locate and evaluate Jordan Spring. Having a healthy spring in this section will be really helpful for other hikers to know about, so... 600 ft down and 25 mins later I arrived in a lush drainage after just a short ways of thrashing once I left an ATV trail for 3/4 of the distance. The water was clear, cold, and ready for consumption as it welled up from the ground. I forced down 2 L before refilling and climbing back up to the ridge to resume my lunch.
Our lunch break was interrupted by a light rain, so I finished up, packed up, and got moving. Generating heat is more important to me than resting once the temps drop. Motivated to cover some ground this afternoon I decided to carry WD's food bags in addition to my own gear and ~1 gallon of water. The added weight seemed to have little affect on my pace...when you know you have the legs, you'd better use 'em! For whatever reason, my energy seemed limitless this afternoon and I tooled along at 4 mph to just past Ulm Peak and found a wind sheltered camp for the evening. Without his luggage, WD was happy to keep pace and trotted along with me.
Despite the early hr, 22 miles for the day was plenty and the views from the ridge are excellent...mostly because the area was recently burned so I can actually see further than 20 yds into the woods. I am curious just how cold it intends to get this evening...
This portion of the Bitteroot Mtns are not particularly distinctive. Just rounded knobs and lumps of forested (and cut) slopes into the distance. By no means ugly or un worthwhile, but thus far nothing to really set them apart. But hey, I'll never complain about big open spaces!
Despite being on a rd all day, the walking was pleasant. Rds are much more tolerable when what they are intended to accommodate are not around. Only 3 vehicles today.
WD is already in the shelter, curled up on my sleeping pad and stinking up the place. He has been a bit gassy today...
BrianAugust 11th
The cool morning started with a steep rd walk up to Idaho Point and a communications station. Big views in all directions, although not towards anything too spectacular.
The trail made its way indistinctly along a rocky ridgeline, dropping to a saddle and then continued on. The wind began to pick up from the west, and when the trail contoured on the east side of the range, the morning was pleasant, when not, the 20 mph wind grew tiresome.
About half way from Idaho Point to Porcupine Pass the trail became more defined and the walking was easy although at times a bit brushy. After taking a short break at the pass, finding the trail southward was indistinct...further down the rd than marked on the maps, but a small cairn clued me in. Once I found it, the trail was in great shape and easy to follow...nicely contoured as well all the way to the powerlines just past Eighty Seven Mile Peak.
From that point it was a rd walk for maybe a mile before I noticed a junction at the stateline. The ICT follows the rd and contours around to Taylor Saddle before climbing towards the jct to Ninety Three Mile Lake. Fortunately, the sign for the trail junction noted the #7 CC Divide Trail and the same lake being 5 miles distant. Right on! Even better the trail was in fine shape and made a lovely high contour just below Lost Peak before dropping to a saddle and then dropping to the Lake.
WD and I are taking a break here for lunch. Originally I had planned a short 16 miles today and planned to camp here, but I think we'll get another few miles in and reduce our mileage slightly in the coming days.
The wind is still whipping on the ridge so I am sure I'll have to keep an eye on my hat this afternoon.
Just before leaving the lake I began to have some issues with my SteriPen (which uses UV light to treat water) as I was trying to fill up for the coming miles. I finally managed to coax 1.5 liters out of it...just enough to hydrate my dinner and to fill a 1 L water bottle, but certainly not enough to comfortably get me to Mullan, still ~35 miles distant.
I did notice a spring on the map ahead and kept my fingers crossed it was in good shape...milking a liter for an evening, and then a long following day would not be pleasant, although doable given the circumstance. The spring itself was about 7 miles away, but judging by the contour lines, no possible camping until 2-3 miles later. So, my easy 16 mile day was looking to be a bit of work. Oh well, what can you do but walk?
Just beyond the lake I saw couple picking huckleberries. Each had nearly a gallon. That takes some time! The were enjoying a fine day in the Bitteroots.
Pushing on I came to rds end and began a steady climb up well graded trail and then across the scree fields of the western slope of the ridgeline...each footfall atop the scree sounding like an out of tune piano. Ahhh, now the Bitteroots were showing some distinction! Craggy, rocky, yet not unreasonably rugged, all matched well with beautiful trail. Even a few dwindling snow patches for me to cross and WD to roll around in.
Despite my building anxiety about my water situation, I was enjoying the afternoon. Occasionally I'd fret, but I knew whatever the case was, it would force my hand and I'd think of Plan 2.
Fortunately Mamma Earth came through again as I rounded a curve and caught the smell of water on the wind. The first trickle was just that, and I knew that filling a gallon of water was going to be time consuming! But then the wind stopped and I heard a stronger babble of water. I dropped my pack and picked my way upslope to find a nice filling station. Perfection! WD was already filling himself up as I gathered my bottles, chugged what water I had, and then drank an additional 2 L as the bottles filled. Both refreshed, we continued a long contour across slope with our eyes peeled for the first campsite...well, at least I was as WD was more intent to stalk chipmunks.
Eventually, the landscape became less severe as we closed in on a saddle. Just short of the saddle proper and therefore less of a funnel for the wind, we settled in for the night.
Reviewing the mileage data, it looks like ~25 miles for the day. A long one to be sure, but a day that ended on a good note and was a joy to walk! Good to know that we are both capable of that distance when needed.
The trail was exceptional today with a variety of trail, and a few scenic surprises along the way as I became more familiar with the Bitteroot range.
Thanks for reading.
BrianAugust 12th
After a very calm evening, WD and I awoke and hit the trail. More trail perfection in a gradual contour and then descent to a roadway. Unfortunately ATV's have found their way about 1/2 mile up the trail from the rd.
From that point, we contoured along rd 430 for a few miles before a trail jct led to more of the same...excellent trail contouring just below the ridgeline. A few blowdowns to contend with but nothing rigorous.
After a few miles we began the descent to near Thompson Pass. I was happily in my head and missed the turn off to the rd, but quickly decided it did not really matter. The trail I was on led directly to Thompson Pass and then contoured to rejoin the ICT and the trail to Blossom Lake. As a bonus, this trail (say it with me!) contoured nicely so I did not loose any elevation for the next 1.5 miles.
I was surprised to see that Thompson Pass is a paved rd...with FS Interpretative signage to boot. Guess I've been in the homes of martens, wolverine, and lynx. All I've seen or heard since Clark Fork are ravens, chipmunks, squirrels, and deer.
Judging by the footprints and dustiness, the trail to Blossum Lake is popular. As such it was well maintained and well graded. WD was happy to greet the outlet flow of the lake with a minute long drink and a brief instream lie-down. No doubt refreshing. Blossum Lake looked to be an ideal candidate for a swim with it's ease of entry and pebbly shoreline. My plans were to get to Pear Lake ~1 mile distance for lunch and a swim. Setting off, the trail climbed to a low pass then zig and zagged before finding the shores of shallow, warm watered Pear Lake. Perfect! I stripped down and eased in up to my waist then turned and did a backflop into the water. Submerged in the snowmelt waters of the Lake, I swam about for a few minutes, and scrubbed off the trail grit from the previous few days. Totally revived, I emerged, dressed, and decided to do a few more miles to get away from the bugs and to warm up!
Being clean always does wonders for my psyche. Not sure why exactly, but a swim or a rinse just lifts my spirits.
A few miles and a stiff climb up from Pear Lake we stopped for lunch trailside just before noon. Judging by the maps, only ~11 miles remain to Mullan.
Motivated, WD and I set off again, a downward glide to Glidden Pass along ATV enhanced switchbacks, a then a short rd walk to Copper Pass. I was not to patient in finding the trail from Copper Pass and improvised a bit..finding it location by referencing a curve in the rd and the bushwhacking to get to it. Back on trail, this section was poorly maintained and overgrown -- at least in comparison to the previous days of walking. The trail to the ridge was more an enhanced animal trail than anything else as it was nearly straight up, loose and over grown. Manageable, but certainly physical.
Upon cresting the ridge, the trail was in much better shape although the jct to begin the descent to Mullan was not where my maps indicated. I backtracked twice thinking I may have passed it, but...no sign. Instead onward, I simply set of cross country figuring if the trail was indeed below me, I'd eventually cross it. Fortunately after 10 mins of sidehilling and descent I found the trail at a switchback and was surprised to see it in such good condition! The jct must have been just slightly ahead of where I bailed of the ridge. No harm, no foul.
The remainder of the descent was uneventful, but the lower section of trail tread is quite dry and loose. Slippery going for sure before the ICT spits you out onto a rd...which I was obliged to follow into the town of Mullan, Id.
Lots of times, towns become anchors that keep a hiker in a state of mind that does not encourage moving on...good food, internet access, laundry, relaxation, or a nice vibe. Whatever it is, sometimes it is hard to leave. Fortunately Mullan will not present that challenge! Despite its lack of appeal, I will be taking a full rest day here tomorrow.
When I checked into the Lookout Motel the proprietor asked where I'd been hiking. When I replied from Canada, he said he had another hiker a few weeks ago that had been doing the same but northbound! So, that was encouraging news that someone else made it through the rigors of the coming miles although in reverse. If the mystery hiker did continue on to Canada, than he must have finished before I started because I have yet to see another backpacker on the trail.
Anyway, another long day on the trail...~24 miles. But...nothing a double bacon cheeseburger, potato salad and an ice cream bar from the local tavern could not handle.
With the hum of I-90 close to my bedroom window, I sleep...
Thanks for reading.
BrianMullan Rest Day
After threatening a rest day since Naples, I finally took one. Like most rest days it has been spent doing in-town chores, eating, and staying off my feet.
I did make a visit to the Mullan City Museum and learned abit about Capt Mullan who founded this Interstate Hamlet. A fine man, but I am uncertain how proud he'd be of Mullans current state as his legacy. Surviving to be sure, but grasping to hang on it seems to me. The local Silver Mine provides the bulk of the jobs here (as well as community finance), and while Lookout Pass Ski Area is just up the rd, it is close enough to other larger towns that I don't imagine Mullan providing any services to winter enthusiasts during that season. As a hiker town the pickin's are slim, but accommodating enough....small hotel (half filled with community renters), PO, library internet, a tavern, a convenience store, and huckleberry milkshakes. Just enough.
Mullan is also along the Hiawatha Rails to Trails rte, which is a northern Idaho bicycle route that follows old railroad grades. I've seen a few cyclists...all speeding past town.
Temps seem to be on the way up, insuring a hot climb up Boulder Creek to the ridgeline rd that is the ICT. Boulder Creek is an alt rte that helps me avoid more pavement and begins just a few blocks from the Lookout Hotel where I am staying for $24 a night. Price is right!
WD has been sleeping the day away, only awakening when he hears the food hit his dish.
The next three resupplies are what I'd consider `backcountry' meaning the likelihood of me being able to communicate with the outside world from them are very slim. ~450 miles without a town and only one paved rd crossing (~160 miles) at HWY 12! After the HWY I'll head into the Selway-Bitteroot and Frank Church Wilderness areas of central Idaho.
So...that may mean no journal updates until the first week of September when I arrive in Grandjean. Bear with me...I intend to come out the other side!
Thanks for reading.
Brian
