September 3rd
Hit the trail in the cool morning, looking forward to what appeared to be an easy day contouring along the rivers edge.
My achilles/calf situation did not seem to improve overnight so I've been stopping every 20 mins to stretch and massage my lower leg in hopes of relaxing the muscle. ~6 miles from camp I came to Sheepeater Hotsprings and took the opportunity to sit in the hot pool. The air temps had already warmed, but rubbing out my calf with the muscle warm would likely be good. Also at the hotsprings were a group of 5 river runners (canoeists) who were just starting out on a run of the Middle Fork and Salmon Rivers. One fellow was quite talkative and it did not take me long to default to smile and nod mode.
I hung out at the hot springs for about half a hr, WD lounging in the grass. Back on trail my calf seemed slightly better, but we'll see how it plays out in the coming days. The pain is tolerable...what is bothersome is that I cannot walk at my preferred pace or stride length.
Anyway, casual, sunny miles along the river brought us to Mine Creek for an easy ford and then a quick climb back into the sunshine for lunch.
The plan is another ~10 miles this afternoon to find camp just past Dagger Falls.
The trip certainly feels like it is winding down...funny to say with 200+ miles still to hike, but I am heading into familiar terrain so that seems to have triggered some sense of closure. The trip still feels timeless to me which is important... the days simply blend together in a mishmash of memory. While I can look back and recall specifics, Canada does not seem like it is now a month away and ~650 miles in the opposite direction. Life is good when life feels timeless...one of the things I love about about a good long walk.
The afternoon was pleasant. My calf seemed to loosen a bit and the trail stayed mostly level and well defined, and happily unburnt which was not only nice to see, but nice to walk through...shade!
Early evening found us at Boundary Creek Rd where I left the ICT (rd walk) and meandered down to the campground for water and to locate a trail I was certain had to exist...a path that would lead from the campground to Dagger Falls. Sure enough, restless campers had created a well trod path along the river which led to the falls as well as Dagger Fall Campground. Perfect...~2 miles of rd walking avoided!
As tempting as the picnic tables were I decided to push on and cross the river to find a free camp upstream. 20 mins later a sunny knoll welcomed us for the night.
Unfortunately, once I began dinner disaster struck...as I was stirring my nightly slop, I heard a SNAP. WD awoke, and I turned quickly to see... nothing. Then it struck me! My spoon had broke. Looking into my bowl I saw that my dear friend Comrade Scoop had broken apart about half way up the handle. Thankfully it was a clean, quick break and I am doubtful he suffered much although I imagine the pain was awful. Unfortunately, being in the wilds of Idaho, a backcountry rescue or immediate medical attention is improbable.
Comrade Scoop, a proud spoon, was severely injured in service today September 3, 2008 at approximately 6:43 PM. He was a dedicated adventurer and a worthy addition to any expeditionary team. His 5 years of decorated service brought countless calories to my body, and his selfless nature continues to inspire me. I salute you...
I did what I could to make Comrade Scoop as comfortable as possible for the night ahead as he drifted in and out of consciousness. At the moment I'd say his chances are 50/50, but we'll evaluate his condition come morning...if he makes it through the night.
Rest easy old friend.
BrianSeptember 4th
I awoke to a cool morning and decided to sleep in a bit and feed WD and myself from the cozy confines of my sleeping bag. Comrade Scoop was still asleep, his pulse surprisingly strong so I opted for a PopTart instead of my customary routine of Grapenuts. Best to let him rest...
A quick pack and we were off...hiking fast to get some heat generated but trying to be conscious of the pesky achilles/calf issue which actually felt good to start the day.
The trail along the Middle Fork continued to be very good...obviously well used and basically flat as it meandered along and above the river course. A few open meadows gave the sun a chance to shine, but the temps were cool and the warmth gained was minimal. Unburned forest was a treat for half of the morning but soon the trail found charred remains of trees. The steeper streams that joined the river were typically deeply scoured (~8-10 ft deep!) and flanked by hardened mud and debris on each side. No trail was to be seen, but it was an easy walk up or down the mini-chasm to find a place to cross.
At 10:30 I took my customary break. In my morning reverie I figured a way to rig up a prosthetic for my fallen Comrade which would once again make him a proud caloric scooper. A short length of duct tape wrapped just above his neck with a slight gap in it allowed me to insert and remove the lower shaft of a titanium tarp stake, effectively giving Comrade Scoop length and stability to effectively stir, mash, and scrape once again. A bowl of successfully eaten grapenuts confirmed the design and Comrade Scoop was back in action! I was fed, and he was beaming...happy to be a contributing member again and thankful for the second chance at leading a normal life.
With our break over and our collective moods heightened we motored through the remaining mileage to Lola Creek Campground for lunch. Osprey and Redtail hawks were seen and heard throughout the morning.
I'll be leaving the ICT here for an alt rte before rejoining it at the head of Stanley Lake Creek ~5 miles outside of Grandjean. I did this to reduce a 13 mile rd walk (dirt and paved) to simply crossing Bear Valley Rd (dirt) and Hwy 21 (paved). Looks good on a map, now we'll find out how it is in reality!
The climb up Lola Creek was a gradual ascent of 2400 ft over 4.5 miles. Easy going and well contoured. I had cameled up with water at the campground, so my bottles were empty for the climb. Cresting the saddle above Lola Lake, enormous views opened in all cardinal directions: the Whitecloud Mtns, Sawtooth Valley, the Sawtooth Mtns, and behind me the undulating ridges of the Frank Church from which I had come. Spectacular! The only blemish were the rust colored patchwork of pine beetle kills.
As much as I enjoyed hiking through the river corridor, being back on a ridgeline with sweeping views was energizing. I was also relieved to not see a billowing plume of smoke on the southern horizon, which has made me optimistic about the control of the South Barker Fire which lies very close to (or possibly in!) my path of travel.
From the saddle the trail contoured around to the south side and switchbacked down a ridgeline into a burned area from 1992. A few large blowdowns to negotiate but nothing major. A stream bubbled just off trail and I was able to rehydrate and fill bottles for the evening. Other than illegal motorcycle use, the Lola Creek Trail (024) seems a very viable alternative to walking the shoulder of HWY 21...
Shortly thereafter we crossed Bear Valley Rd and decided to make camp. Despite stopping at 4:30, we had already covered ~22 miles and I saw no reason to continue...to do so only meant higher ground and surface water which translates to colder night time temps. No thanks...it'll be cold enough here at 7600 ft!
A great day on the ICT and so far so good with my alt route.
BrianSeptember 5th
Pushed off at 7:30 and headed quickly to the sun, now shining on the ridgeline a few hundred feet above me. Elk bugling was a treat last night and I stayed up as late as I could listened to them...about 9 pm, which is typical `hiker midnight'.
A continuation of trail 024, the rte climbed gradually from Cape Horn Summit before wrapping below Bull Trout Point. This section of trail is open to bicycles and motorcycles, but I saw nor heard any and the trail itself is in fine shape.
A contoured descent overlooking the marshes below soon brought me to Bull Trout Lake Rd which I followed for ~5 mins before swinging right onto single track just after crossing Bench Creek and just before the zoom of HWY 21. A brief jaunt through the lodgepole and I was soon at the Bench Lake Campground where I crossed the HWY and made my up the obviously marked Bench Creek Trail.
This trail has seen plenty of ATV use for 3/4 of its length, but that impact lessened once the riding began to require actual skill to continue. Creek and springs marked my progress upward until I came to the saddle between Bench and Canyon Creeks where the trail (still motorized, but less impact) began to climb steadily to the ridgeline above the elongated waters of Marten Lake.
The views from the saddle were fair, sunny skies, a bluish-green Martin Lake below, and a few craggy peaks. The descent to the lake was a steep, loose mess...aggressively entrenched in spots from motorcycles. Going was slow, but easy to the jct with Swamp and Trap Creeks where I headed up again towards Kelly Lake. Good trail and a slight ascent brought me to a sunny saddle above Elizabeth Lake were we stopped for lunch after a good effort of ~13 miles this morning. From his vantage I can follow my intended rte up Elk Creek.
Portions of the trail down to Elk Creek were in fine shape as it contoured through the woods. Some of it was not. Motorcycles had scoured out a more vertical path, but I did what I could to follow the original trail when possible.
Eventually I came to a jct and a crossing of the clear running Elk Creek and headed upstream...~5 miles and 2,000 ft away from the ridgeline I wanted to camp at.
Initially Elk Creek was fantastic as it meandered along the edges of meadows as the trail headed upstream, obviously a trail that gets little use and even less maintenance. But, all signs for navigation (tree blazes, sawn logs) were there to continue on fairly efficiently even when the trail disappeared...which it began to do with regularity. Regardless I continued upward, more focused on staying out of the mushy meadows and simply going up than comforting my mind by being exactly on the trail. Deadfall increased, aforementioned navigational clues disappeared, and my pace slowed as I busied myself with hopscotching over and around obstacles. I was not concerned in the least bit, but was looking forward to a more relaxed afternoon both physically and mentally. Eventually I came to the base of a headwall along decent game trail and then gunned it straight for the ridge. It was steep, loose, and a very physical way to close out the day! I finally gained the ridge and was struck with killer views of the crooked teeth of the Sawtooths. Very nice! I found a sheltered flat spot among the trees and made camp at 8,400 ft.
Although I enjoyed the challenge of Elk Creek, I would not recommend the rte. If I was to do it again, I'd likely head downstream from the jct with the Elizabeth Lake Trail and then rejoin the ICT in a mile or two at Elk Meadows before heading up Stanley Lake Creek.
Elk Creek is also quite delicate, so if you find yourself in this drainage, walk with minimal impact in mind and budget your time wisely to avoid camping in the drainage.
The other slightly daunting consideration is my rte tomorrow which is to follow a rugged ridgeline from my camp to the top of Observation Peak before descending to rejoin the ICT. The ridge itself looks fine, but the rubble heap of a peak that guards its access looks to be the crux of the day. Generally, these things always appear worse than they are, but from my vantage this evening it could be a bit of a struggle.
Anyway, ~10 miles to Grandjean tomorrow. I am pretty anxious to arrive for my re-supply as my parents will be meeting me there and it will be great to see them and catch as they have their own travel tales to tell as well!
BrianSeptember 6th
Arrived in Grandjean well before noon after an absolutely fantastic ridgeline walk this morning...a truly majestic ~2 mile xc ramble. Huge views, craggy peaks, and surprisingly warm weather...great way to start the day.
Down from Observation Peak the trail meandered through charred forest before dropping alongside Trail Creek...the southern slopes now covered in sage and the air noticeably dry. Spotted a coyote scooting off trail, as well as 2 groups of backpackers and a few dayhikers.
One final creek crossing brought me to the FS campground and a familiar face...my mother unzipping her pant legs to ford the creek. Hugs, hellos and smiling faces! The day gets better and better! Dad soon followed ad we all turned around and walked the 1.5 miles to Sawtooth Lodge catching up on life. While its nice to meet great people along a hike, it is never a substitute for my family. WD was as excited as I, and he immediately defaulted into grand-dawg behavior...which means not listening!
Once at the lodge I began my hearty lunch...cookies (thanks Grandma!) a ham sandwich, a pork chop, chips, pea pods, hummus, and fruit. Satiated, the next step was to figure out the South Barker fire situation south of here. A quick phone call to Cathy at the fire management center confirmed my dads research...the fire was still very much active despite no smoke plume and all rd and trail closures basically ensured no convenient way around it. Despite the news, Cathy and I brainstormed for a few minutes trying to think of alternative scenarios. Thankfully, she offered to take down my details and call and email me as soon as either suitable trails or rd walks were once again safe for travel and open. By her best guess, that would be a week at the earliest.
So, the decision has been made to bail out of Grandjean with my folks and WD...head back to Boise and wait out the South Barker Blaze. Once it clears, I'll re-start the hike and bust out the remaining mileage to Nevada as soon as possible.
Certainly not ideal, but given the circumstance the best plan that I can see at this point. While lengthy rd detours exist, I do not see the point in continuing the hike along rds that are not related to the ICT.
As details develop I'll certainly post them to the blog.
Anyway, the hot springs await!
Thanks for reading.
Brian
